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Edible South Florida Summer 2013 : Page28

Nick's New Haven Style Pizzeria NEW HAVEN STYLE They do things a little differently in New Haven, Connecticut. They call pizza “a’pizza,” for one thing (and then pronounce it “a-beets”). And they put clams on it, for another. Supposedly, it all started with Frank Pepe, a pizzaiolo who first opened shop in New Haven in 1925. His thin-crusted, well-charred pizzas showed his Neapolitan roots. But Frank Pepe’s white clam pizza, created several decades later, is not traditional. Rather, it was likely the result of a “chocolate peanut butter cup moment,” when someone got the bright idea to combine their pizza with their appetizer of fresh clams on the half-shell. Nick’s New Haven Style Pizzeria, in Boca Raton, carries on the legacy, with lots of authentic New Haven touches. The pizzas are made in a coal-fired oven that hits 750°, and come out “done well,” as they put it. They’re presented on a rectangular baking sheet, sometimes hanging off the side. They offer fresh Rhode Island clams as a topping for their specialty white pies. They even serve Foxon Park sodas, a classic Connecticut product that predates Frank Pepe Pizzeria by a few years. Nick’s menu includes a fairly broad selection of appetizers, salads, grinders, pastas and traditional entrées. But for a real taste of New Haven – get the a’pizza. You don’t need to know the origin story to know it’s good, especially if you get their signature combination of clams, bacon, peppers and garlic. The oceanic brininess of the clams finds a great match in the porcine saltiness of the bacon, a surf and turf held together by just a thin layer of cheese, brightened with the vegetal snap of the peppers and sharpened by the smack of fresh garlic. Nick’s New Haven Style Pizzeria 2240 NW 19 Street Boca Raton 561-368-2900 +1 ∙ summer 2013 ∙ edible

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