Edible Michiana Spring 2014 : Page 20

artisans BACON JAM? YES PLEASE! Meat Counter Must-Haves from “Local” Favorites PHOTOGRAPHY BY IVAN LABIANCA Handcrafted sausages and delectable charcuterie—like their famous bacon jam—draw customers to Local, Ellie and Pat Mullin’s specialty shop. have a problem with Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats. If you’ve visited Ellie and Pat Mullins’s jewel box of a store in New Buffalo, Michigan, you’ll know what I mean. Step just one foot inside the cheery shop and the world outside goes fuzzy and dim. The meat case—loaded with Pat’s charcuterie, handcrafted sausages and fresh meats—mesmerizes. Shelves of small-batch delicacies (spiced cocktail cherries! bacon mayonnaise!) and bins of lovingly curated vegetables captivate. I just stare, dumbfounded, every time. (Word to the wise: Unless you have an exceptionally patient spouse, do not leave your better half waiting in the car while you “pop into Local for a minute.” It’s just not possible.) Thankfully, Ellie Mullins is always at the ready to help those of us made witless by artisanal bacon. Here’s her annotated shopping list to keep you focused—because the only thing better than a trip to Local is devouring those meaty treats and tasty condiments once you get home. —Maya Parson I Chorizo This is a Mexican-style chorizo: fresh, bold and bright. It is a variation of one that Pat used to make at the Hungry Cat. There it was ground with a hand-cranked grinder that we still have on our kitchen shelf. I think the magic in it has to do with binding it by hand with a combination of chilled tequila and red wine vinegar. Plus it never hurts to have an “ingredient” bottle of tequila hanging around. Baby Back Ribs A new favorite item of mine that I think Pat mastered this year is baby back ribs. Actually, they had been on trial for a while. Every weekend Pat would break down a pork loin and he’d turn the ribs into “victory ribs” for Da Bears’ Sunday game. Now they appear rubbed or smoked in our case about once a week. A couple of variations are already in place: a barbecue style with a cider vinegar mop and smoked with peach wood from Seed-ling Fruit Farm in South Haven, Michigan, and a Korean-style barbecue smoked with pear wood from Stumm Farm right here in New Buffalo. Hap’s Bacon Named after Pat’s grandpa, Hap Murphey. They called him Hap because he was such a happy baby…. And, bacon makes one happy. When Pat and I first met when we were working at the Hungry Cat restaurant in Santa Barbara, California, he made this same bacon recipe. Whenever I was hungry, Pat would slowly render a thick slab over the wood-burning grill and sneak it on my cutting board. Key to my heart! Lapin Confit Heaven in a jar. Rabbit it a beautiful, delicate meat. It is also lean, so curing it and confiting it in duck fat makes it heavenly. It is delicious tempered and served with a fresh baguette, a whole-grain mustard and cornichons. I also love it crisped up with duck fat in a sauté pan and served with fresh pasta and peas as a fun variation on carbonara. Bacon Jam After slicing a slab of bacon we’d be stuck with ends, still delicious but not a pretty hunk anymore. One day a good family friend, Gary, came in and said he was going to try to make some bacon jam and, if he liked it, he’d bring us a taste and the recipe. Well, he did and we did. Over time it’s become quite popular! In fact, now we have a bacon jam disclaimer: It’s available only on Sunday mornings. Anyone who can hold one can buy one, but when we’re out we’re out. 20 edible Michiana early spring 2014 Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats 424 E. Buffalo St. New Buffalo, MI 269.231.5138 LocalNewBuffalo.com

Artisans

Photography By Ivan Labianca

Meat Counter Must-Haves from "Local" Favorites

Bacon Jam? Yes, Please!

I have a problem with Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats. If you've visited Ellie and Pat Mullins's jewel box of a store in New Buffalo, Michigan, you'll know what I mean. Step just one foot inside the cheery shop and the world outside goes fuzzy and dim. The meat case – loaded with Pat's charcuterie, handcrafted sausages and fresh meats – mesmerizes. Shelves of small-batch delicacies (spiced cocktail cherries! bacon mayonnaise!) and bins of lovingly curated vegetables captivate. I just stare, dumbfounded, every time. (Word to the wise: Unless you have an exceptionally patient spouse, do not leave your better half waiting in the car while you "pop into Local for a minute." It's just not possible.)

Thankfully, Ellie Mullins is always at the ready to help those of us made witless by artisanal bacon. Here's her annotated shopping list to keep you focused – because the only thing better than a trip to Local is devouring those meaty treats and tasty condiments once you get home.
– Maya Parson

Hap's Bacon

Named after Pat's grandpa, Hap Murphey. They called him Hap because he was such a happy baby. . . . And, bacon makes one happy. When Pat and I first met when we were working at the Hungry Cat restaurant in Santa Barbara, California, he made this same bacon recipe. Whenever I was hungry, Pat would slowly render a thick slab over the wood-burning grill and sneak it on my cutting board. Key to my heart!

Bacon Jam

After slicing a slab of bacon we'd be stuck with ends, still delicious but not a pretty hunk anymore. One day a good family friend, Gary, came in and said he was going to try to make some bacon jam and, if he liked it, he'd bring us a taste and the recipe. Well, he did and we did. Over time it's become quite popular! In fact, now we have a bacon jam disclaimer: It's available only on Sunday mornings. Anyone who can hold one can buy one, but when we're out we're out.

Chorizo

This is a Mexican-style chorizo: fresh, bold and bright. It is a variation of one that Pat used to make at the Hungry Cat. There it was ground with a hand-cranked grinder that we still have on our kitchen shelf. I think the magic in it has to do with binding it by hand with a combination of chilled tequila and red wine vinegar. Plus it never hurts to have an "ingredient" bottle of tequila hanging around.

Baby Back Ribs

A new favorite item of mine that I think Pat mastered this year is baby back ribs. Actually, they had been on trial for a while. Every weekend Pat would break down a pork loin and he'd turn the ribs into "victory ribs" for Da Bears' Sunday game. Now they appear rubbed or smoked in our case about once a week. A couple of variations are already in place: a barbecue style with a cider vinegar mop and smoked with peach wood from Seedling Fruit Farm in South Haven, Michigan, and a Korean-style barbecue smoked with pear wood from Stumm Farm right here in New Buffalo.

Lapin Confit

Heaven in a jar. Rabbit it a beautiful, delicate meat. It is also lean, so curing it and confiting it in duck fat makes it heavenly. It is delicious tempered and served with a fresh baguette, a whole-grain mustard and cornichons. I also love it crisped up with duck fat in a sauté pan and served with fresh pasta and peas as a fun variation on carbonara.

Local: Sustainable Foods & Cured Meats

424 E. Buffalo St.
New Buffalo, MI
269.231.5138
LocalNewBuffalo.com

Read the full article at http://onlinedigeditions.com/article/Artisans/1636751/197468/article.html.

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