Edible Cape Cod Summer 2011 : Page 46
They might include a nightly soup, salad, appetizer, one or two entrees and a dessert. Armed with a few good photos and some Pavlov-esque reactions over the food they were cooking for us, we headed back to the front of the house to finish our meal. Back in the Audience The items simmering, sautéing and searing in the kitchen now appeared at our table, beautifully plated and waiting to be devoured. Not able to commit to just one entrée, I opted for the lobster and corn chowder and a Mediterranean-style Caesar salad. The chowder hit a home run on the lobster front (lots of lobstery goodness in there), yet remained delicate just like chowder should. My Caesar salad had that wonderful balance of garlicky, creamy dressing with bright, crisp greens and marinated white anchovies. The other dishes at the table were all-stars, too. The flounder special was a filet of just-off-the-boat fish, topped with a freshly made, lemon-caper-breadcrumb mixture. The risotto (Sue’s signature dish) was perfectly al dente and topped with a nicely seared filet of salmon. The red meat section got a cheer too; we all took bites of a mouthwatering ribeye served with generously-proportioned crispy potato wedges and a tarragon compound butter. A plate of lobster ravioli in a light white wine cream sauce was in the center of the table in the “sharing position,” just begging us to take a bite in between other bites of heaven. I’m already feeling a bit gluttonous now that I relive this experience on paper, but even after our dinner plates were cleared, we all seemed to be more than ready for dessert. Not because we were still hungry, but when tempted with homemade confections, who could resist? Sue crosses the line between savory and sweet, resulting in a tantalizing dessert menu that is 100% homemade. Even the ice cream (the one thing on the dessert menu that isn’t made at Pisces) is from Buffy’s Homemade in Chatham. The treats that made it to our short list were the “Bizcocho Tres Leches” or Three Milk Cake made with whole milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk drizzled with warm caramel sauce; a slice of tangy key lime pie (a huge favorite of the regular crowd); and a ridiculously awesome sundae resembling an Almond Joy bar. Holy #*$%! Perhaps the obvious astrology reference should wrap this up. Two fish swimming in opposite directions symbolize the zodiac sign of Pisces, and true to this presentation, it is said that those born under the sign feel like they are often being pulled in different directions. Well, as someone born on the cusp of Pisces and certainly familiar with being pulled this way and that, my experience at Pisces the restaurant actually felt no different. But this time it was a good conflict. The menu is just so delightful, it’s hard to decide what to order. Oh well, more reason to go back again. Soon. Kitchen staffer Alex Nikitin. garden in the back of the restaurant, but they go through so much that it’s impossible to keep up. Luckily right on deck to supplement their herb habit is Ring Brothers; the new Chatham Farmers’ Market across the street; and a weekly visit from Surrey Farms’ Ron Backer. Leading lady to the herbs is the fresh fish, and local vendors are key players. “We use Chatham Fish and Lobster a lot, and it’s great because on any given day they will tell us exactly what they have and where it came from,” Sue says. Seafood from around the corner is of course the first choice, but Sue also considers “an expanded view of local” when sourcing items that aren’t available on the Cape. An example is the fresh calamari she gets from Point Judith, Rhode Island, or sometimes, Maryland soft shell crabs. In any case, there’s no doubt that Sue Connors feels the love with local and organic food; she was born with it. Whether eating vegetables her family grew in their garden or fish they caught in Cape Cod summer waters, the local “trend” has always been a way of life for her. Perhaps best said by the magnet on the restaurant’s kitchen fridge: “Try organic food. Or as your grandparents called it, food .” The Pisces menu changes according to nightly inspiration, but more with the preparation rather than the main component itself. “Folks get used to their favorite dishes, so we don’t want to change things too frequently and disappoint,” Sue says. Accordingly, you can always expect to find caramelized scallops, seared tuna and a risotto dish on the menu in some form, but you might be pleasantly surprised by their accompaniments. And then of course there are the specials, so abundant that Sue admits they sometimes “drive the waitstaff crazy.” 46 summer 2011 Edible Cape Cod Pisces 2653 Main Street (Route 28) Chatham Dinner served nightly from 5 PM . Reservations accepted, gluten-free menu available. 508-432-4600 / www.piscesofchatham.com Tracy is a freelance marketing consultant and copywriter here on Cape Cod. Client work ranges from high tech to health & fitness, but writing about food and wine is really where she feels most at home. A lofty goal is to open her young son’s eyes to the world of food, who at the moment, eats not much more than chicken and fries.