edible Marin and Wine Country Summer 2011 : Page 6

Seafood at the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo SEAFOOD FROM JAPAN PUT AWAY THE GEIGER COUNTERS BY CHASE REYNOLDS EWALD E ver since the September 11 attacks, radiation detec-tors have been important tools in the arsenals of U.S. Customs and Border agents. Here in the Bay Area, with the massive Port of Oakland shipping complex being the fourth-busiest port for containerized goods in the nation, the devices have long been used to check shipments for pos-sible smuggling of nuclear materials. Lately, however, those machines are going after a very different suspect: fresh ﬁsh. The cataclysmic Japanese earthquake and tsunami of March 11, which devastated cities, killed thousands and left tens of thousands homeless, has had an insidious impact that will endure long after the last resident is relocated to a new home. The earthquake and tsunami damaged the nuclear reactor known as Fukushima Dai-Ichi and it has been leaking radiation into the surrounding air, soil and groundwater ever since. Additionally, because of the thousands of gallons of seawater used in a frantic attempt to cool the superheated reactors in the wake of the tsunami, some of that radia-tion has also made its way into the ocean. A second nuclear reactor, Fukushima Dai-Ni, located approximately seven miles from Fukushima Dai-Ichi, also experienced damage from the earthquake and tsunami, although not as severe. According to Food & Water Watch, since the earthquake and tsunami, radioactive iodine has been detected in 11 types of vegetables growing on farms in Japan, and low-level radia-tion, presumably originating in Japan, has been found in milk in Spokane, WA, among other places. Further, some ﬁsh caught in waters near the two troubled nuclear plants have tested positive for elevated levels of radiation. Obviously, questions have arisen about the safety of all foods produced in or harvested from the affected areas. While alarming for their broader, longer-term implications with respect to the planet’s health, the immediate implica-tions of these ﬁndings, it turns out, are minimal—unless you happen to be a farmer in the affected area, ﬁnding your-self with no market for your produce. All produce grown within the affected prefectures—a name for designated geographic areas in Japan, somewhat similar to coun-ties in the United States—has been banned from entering the consumer market. Also directly affected are ﬁsherman and seafood sellers who, previous to the earthquake and tsunami, traded in seafood harvested from these areas. Japan exported $2.4 billion worth of seafood last year. Today, a huge swath of ocean around the damaged nuclear plants has been declared off limits to ﬁshing. The reality of the ﬁnd-ings is that the trace amounts of radiation detected in ﬁsh harvested near the reactors, as well as the aforementioned milk in Spokane, are well below the allowed minimums ﬁt 6 | EDIBLE MARIN & WINE COUNTRY SUMMER 2011

Seafood from Japan

Chase Reynolds Ewald

PUT AWAY THE GEIGER COUNTERS Ever since the September 11 attacks, radiation detectors have been important tools in the arsenals of U.S. Customs and Border agents. Here in the Bay Area, with the massive Port of Oakland shipping complex being the fourth-busiest port for containerized goods in the nation, the devices have long been used to check shipments for possible smuggling of nuclear materials. Lately, however, those machines are going after a very different suspect: fresh fish. The cataclysmic Japanese earthquake and tsunami of March 11, which devastated cities, killed thousands and left tens of thousands homeless, has had an insidious impact that will endure long after the last resident is relocated to a new home. The earthquake and tsunami damaged the nuclear reactor known as Fukushima Dai-Ichi and it has been leaking radiation into the surrounding air, soil and groundwater ever since. Additionally, because of the thousands of gallons of seawater used in a frantic attempt to cool the superheated reactors in the wake of the tsunami, some of that radiation has also made its way into the ocean. A second nuclear reactor, Fukushima Dai-Ni, located approximately seven miles from Fukushima Dai-Ichi, also experienced damage from the earthquake and tsunami, although not as severe. According to Food & Water Watch, since the earthquake and tsunami, radioactive iodine has been detected in 11 types of vegetables growing on farms in Japan, and low-level radiation, presumably originating in Japan, has been found in milk in Spokane, WA, among other places. Further, some fish caught in waters near the two troubled nuclear plants have tested positive for elevated levels of radiation. Obviously, questions have arisen about the safety of all foods produced in or harvested from the affected areas. While alarming for their broader, longer-term implications with respect to the planet's health, the immediate implications of these findings, it turns out, are minimal–unless you happen to be a farmer in the affected area, finding yourself with no market for your produce. All produce grown within the affected prefectures–a name for designated geographic areas in Japan, somewhat similar to counties in the United States–has been banned from entering the consumer market. Also directly affected are fisherman and seafood sellers who, previous to the earthquake and tsunami, traded in seafood harvested from these areas. Japan exported $2.4 billion worth of seafood last year. Today, a huge swath of ocean around the damaged nuclear plants has been declared off limits to fishing. The reality of the findings is that the trace amounts of radiation detected in fish harvested near the reactors, as well as the aforementioned for human consumption set forth by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). To ensure safety for consumers, the Japanese government is currently checking all fish for radiation before it is shipped, and authorities in the United States, and in many other countries, are again checking the fish at points of entry. Still, business at Tokyo's sushi bars has declined abruptly, five-star hotels in Hong Kong have dropped fresh food from Japan from their menus and Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin in New York City made recent headlines for buying a Geiger counter–a device that measures ionizing radiation–for his restaurant's kitchen. But it is safe to eat fish from Japan, insists Yoshi Tome of the highly acclaimed Sushi Ran in Sausalito. "The Japanese have always wanted to know where their fish was coming from, even 30 years ago," Tome explains. "It has always been tagged and stamped with where it was caught, when it was caught and how it was harvested, stored and transported. The Japanese are self-monitoring." When it comes to beef, for example, Tome says, "In the United States, 1 of every 200 cows is inspected. In Europe, it's 1 of every 20. In Japan, every cow over 3 years old is inspected. In Japan, we inspect everything. We have a system in place. Why does Japan have the longest longevity in the world and is one of the healthiest nations?" Tome asks. "Because of what they eat, and the monitoring. They won't eat it if they don't know what it is." Tome, who was born and raised in Japan but has lived in the United States since his college days, has been following developments in his homeland closely. "There are four [prefectures] affected by radiation," he continues, "and there's a moratorium on produce from those four. They're checking fish before it goes out, and the FDA is checking everything at the airport [as it comes in]. A month ago, all [of] the fish [were] recalled for inspection. It's inconvenient sometimes, but I'm happy with it because someone is checking it at the door." Jeffrey Lunak, executive chef of Morimoto Napa, agrees. Morimoto Napa is famous for its sushi bar, whose offerings change daily. The restaurant's business has not been hugely affected by the events in Japan, says Lunak. "We buy from different markets, so when Tsukiji [the most famous fish market in Japan] was not running normally we firmed up our relationship with the buyer from Kyushu, in southwestern Japan. [The various restaurants with which Masaharu Morimoto–the well-known Japanese chef, best known as the third Iron Chef on the Japanese television show by the same name, and the Iron Chef on its spin-off, Iron Chef America–is involved have their own buyers at Japan's biggest fish markets.] One hundred percent of our produce is from the Napa area, and some of our products are grown in my backyard. We've been featuring striped bass from the east coast, local abalone and spot prawns from the Pacific. However, we've been trying to support Japanese fishermen as much as we can. We've had some inquiries from guests, but the Japanese government is checking the fish before it goes out, and the FDA is checking every shipment that's coming in. It's restored confidence, and there's no huge fear that anyone is serving tainted fish." Both Tome and Lunak stress the importance of education. Says Lunak, "I think this is a situation where the one positive is that it's educating everyone: the wait staff, the customers, the chefs. Sourcing fish is a fulltime job." "We tell our guests what's going on, and where our fish is coming from," says Tome. In fact, every dish on the menu is identified by the origin of its primary ingredient. But, he adds, most fish coming through the large fish markets in Japan is not actually caught in Japan. And even if caught in Japan, it would not have been harvested anywhere near the damaged nuclear reactors. "Japan," Tome points out, "is a 4,000-mile-long island." Tome has done more than simply support Japanese fishermen and attempt to educate his guests–in March he helped organize an event at Hotel Nikko in San Francisco that raised $80,000 in one evening for the Red Cross's relief effort in Japan. "When you think of what people went through, people not being able to find their families, people living with no water, no heat, in the dark, and the earth shaking, my heart goes out to them. How can we support them? We need to not just send money, but support restaurants and products. Some restauranteurs are saying don't carry Japanese products, even frozen products. But we need to give them moral support right now," says Tome. "Not buying Japanese products will hurt them even more." Chase Reynolds Ewald is an author, foodie and mother of four living in Marin County. A Senior Editor of Western Art & Architecture magazine and the author of many books and cookbooks, her most recent book titles include The New Western Home and New West Cuisine (Gibbs Smith, 2009 and 2008, respectively). Sundried Berry & Cherries Encrusted Goat Cheese Yield: Appetizer for 4 INGREDIENTS: 1/2 cup sundried berries and cherries from Gary & Kit's Gourmet Mountain Mix–Sundried Berry and Cherries, chopped 1 four oz goat cheese log Pinch of salt TO PREPARE: Roughly chop berries and cherries, add a pinch of salt and pour onto a piece of parchment paper. Roll goat cheese log over mixture to coat completely. Wrap tightly and refrigerate overnight. To serve, bring to room temperature and serve with fresh baguette rounds or crackers. Pair with a crisp glass of white wine such as Clif Family Winery's The Climber White, from the same family that makes Gary & Kit's Gourmet Mixes. The golden cherries and strawberries complement the bright fruit flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc-based blend. Mild roasted almonds and sea salt provide a savory contrast to the bright flavors of the sun dried California fruit.

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