Edible New Orleans Spring 2011 : Page 3

new orleans PUBLISHER John Burns EDITOR Joel S. Elmore PHOTO EDITOR Bill Yates FILM EDITOR David Aman ELECTRONIC MEDIA Julio Fernandez DESIGN Melissa Petersen MEDIA RELATIONS Cassandra Nicaud Gore CONTRIBUTORS Matt Davis • Henry Earls Nina Feldman • Ashley Locklear Kevin McCaffrey • Molly Reid Cormac Sussman • Jessica Williams CONTACT edible L’APÉRITIF Edible New Orleans 504.390.9460 8300 Earhart Blvd., Suite 100 New Orleans, LA 70118 Info@edibleneworleans.com www.edibleneworleans.com ADVERTISE sales@edibleneworleans.com 504.390.9460 Edible New Orleans is published four time an-nually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. ©2011 Contains 30% post consumer waste. More than the wealth of blueberries and blue crabs, even more than the beginning of the fes-tival season, I love the way our food comes outdoors in spring, the way it can be smelled from the sidewalk of almost any street. There’s something more than the usual camaraderie of cook-ing and eating down here this time of year, when our doors open and the backyard crawfish boil becomes a weekend mainstay. But it isn’t just the smell of food that inspires me this sea-son; it’s the ubiquitous excitement, the chatter over pre-dinner drinks, the telltale signs that something monumental is about to happen among us. I love this transition from winter to summer. To miss it is to miss out on an essence of where we live. For us at Edible New Orleans, it’s easy to ponder such new beginnings this season, par-ticularly as we look forward to a wealth of upcoming events and challenges. First on the docket is Gulf Alive!, an Edible-sponsored event devoted to fresh local food—and our community’s access to it—hosted by a range of local culinary personalities, chefs, farmers, and gastronomes, at the French Market on April 18-20. Of course, French Quarter Festival and Jazz Fest are al-ready upon us as well, but with the one-year anniversary of the BP-Deepwater oil disaster fast approaching, these food-and music-driven festivities carry the weight of reflection alongside the joy of celebration. It’s with this in mind that we offer you the new Spring 2011 issue: food-excitement mar-ried with culture-and social-consciousness. Edible New Orleans as a company has emerged anew this spring with a sharpened vision that honors our culinary heritage, including those who brought the magazine this far, and embraces our new future, which includes a fresh com-mitment to food access and awareness in our community, as well as the courage to begin new chapters in the history of our publication, our city, and our region. You’ll find in the pages to come, I hope, not just unique perspectives of our local food culture, but also snippets of springtime inspiration. Because we believe that our progress as a community depends upon our understanding of our heritage, we’ve tried to mingle current must-haves with brief glances at history. We’ve also drawn upon old and new contributors for material, in an effort to build from what’s available to us in this transitional issue, which rep-resents a turning point in the focus and scope of the magazine. What you’ll notice in this col-lection is a recurring theme of New Orleans traditions—pie men, free eats, market-going—alongside accounts of contemporary survival—the local oyster and shrimp in-dustries after the disaster in the Gulf, and the reemergence of open-market enthusiasm after a half-century of decline. You’ll also get a sneak peak at Season 2 of HBO’s “Treme,” as well as unique glimpses into the endeavors of a local young chefs-in-training, oilmen-turned-brew-pub-owners, and cookbooks with accessible attitudes. It’s a time of excitement for us at this critical juncture. In this and upcoming issues, please join us with renewed inspiration as we celebrate and reflect on distinctive food and drink, our award-winning chefs and restaurateurs, hidden culinary gems, local farm-conscious venues and events, and the need for healthy foods in schools and underserved neighborhoods in our area. As the quarterly’s new editor, I’m both thrilled and honored by the opportunity to serve the Edible community during this wonderful season of change. Thanks for reading, and cheers! Sincerely, Joel Saunders Elmore www.edibleneworleans.com 3

L'apéritif

More than the wealth of blueberries and blue crabs, even more than the beginning of the festival season, I love the way our food comes outdoors in spring, the way it can be smelled from the sidewalk of almost any street. There's something more than the usual camaraderie of cooking and eating down here this time of year, when our doors open and the backyard crawfish boil becomes a weekend mainstay. But it isn't just the smell of food that inspires me this season; it's the ubiquitous excitement, the chatter over pre-dinner drinks, the telltale signs that something monumental is about to happen among us. I love this transition from winter to summer. To miss it is to miss out on an essence of where we live. For us at Edible New Orleans, it's easy to ponder such new beginnings this season, particularly as we look forward to a wealth of upcoming events and challenges. First on the docket is Gulf Alive!, an Edible-sponsored event devoted to fresh local food–and our community's access to it–hosted by a range of local culinary personalities, chefs, farmers, and gastronomes, at the French Market on April 18-20. Of course, French Quarter Festival and Jazz Fest are already upon us as well, but with the one-year anniversary of the BP-Deepwater oil disaster fast approaching, these food- and music-driven festivities carry the weight of reflection alongside the joy of celebration. It's with this in mind that we offer you the new Spring 2011 issue: food-excitement married with culture- and social-consciousness. Edible New Orleans as a company has emerged anew this spring with a sharpened vision that honors our culinary heritage, including those who brought the magazine this far, and embraces our new future, which includes a fresh commitment to food access and awareness in our community, as well as the courage to begin new chapters in the history of our publication, our city, and our region. You'll find in the pages to come, I hope, not just unique perspectives of our local food culture, but also snippets of springtime inspiration. Because we believe that our progress as a community depends upon our understanding of our heritage, we've tried to mingle current must-haves with brief glances at history. We've also drawn upon old and new contributors for material, in an effort to build from what's available to us in this transitional issue, which represents a turning point in the focus and scope of the magazine. What you'll notice in this collection is a recurring theme of New Orleans traditions–pie men, free eats, market-going–alongside accounts of contemporary survival–the local oyster and shrimp industries after the disaster in the Gulf, and the reemergence of open-market enthusiasm after a half-century of decline. You'll also get a sneak peak at Season 2 of HBO's "Treme," as well as unique glimpses into the endeavors of a local young chefs-in-training, oilmen-turned-brewpub-owners, and cookbooks with accessible attitudes. It's a time of excitement for us at this critical juncture. In this and upcoming issues, please join us with renewed inspiration as we celebrate and reflect on distinctive food and drink, our award-winning chefs and restaurateurs, hidden culinary gems, local farm-conscious venues and events, and the need for healthy foods in schools and underserved neighborhoods in our area. As the quarterly's new editor, I'm both thrilled and honored by the opportunity to serve the Edible community during this wonderful season of change. Thanks for reading, and cheers! Sincerely, Joel Saunders Elmore

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