Edible Blue Ridge Summer 2011 : Page 27

Clockwise from bottom left: A straggling duck leaves the “hatchery.” The Goodes with dog Gunner. Harris in the kitchen. The Goodes sample Harris’ handiwork. A long list of local food sources hangs in the dining room. A few weeks ago, though, they installed a drip-irrigation system, set on a timer, and the quiet moments for peaceful thought will have to wait. I t’s 4:30 p.m. and Harris has gathered the entire restaurant staﬀ in the dining room to tell the story of tonight’s service. Details about preparation—sautéed, braised, fried, stuffed with cheese—as well as about the farms from which the ingredients have come. In about a half hour, guests will start ar-riving, asking questions, and the servers have to be prepared. “We want them to be able to answer 99 percent of the questions, without having to ask someone else,” says Susan, mo-tioning toward the board where the names and locations of all the regular farm suppli-ers are listed. “A lot of people who dine with us want to talk about where the food comes from, who grew it—it’s part of the experi-ence. The kitchen, the waitstaﬀ—we’re all proud, and we hope the farmers are too.” Throughout the year, the staﬀ visits area farms on company field trips—Polyface in Swoope, Caromont in Esmont, Ayrshire in Upperville. Yes, they enjoy the experience (“It’s where their passion is created,” says Susan), but it’s not all fun and games. What they learn is also fodder for the pop quizzes they are given a few times a week. Which farm grew the potatoes in the croquettes? How is the ravioli prepared? Where is Harvest Thyme located? This ensures that the farm-to-table message will make it to each and every, well, table. The restaurant’s message also has an en-vironmental component. The huge carbon footprint left by transporting food thousands of miles is simply nonexistent here. Instead, almost everything comes from within 7 to 75 miles. Even elements of the décor were made by local artisans—like the handcrafted ﬁddle-back-mahogany cabinetry behind the bar and the handblown-glass pendant lamps overhead. “The environmental aspect is important,” says Harris, putting the ﬁnal touches on squash blossoms that have been stuﬀed with local oys-ter mushrooms and ricotta, and then fried. “To me as a chef, what’s more important is that fresh just tastes better. It makes us look like heroes.” Sous chef Jacklin has begun ladling out the gumbo, which includes the Goodes’ okra. These are a special variety—spineless, skinny, without the profusion of seeds. Maybe tomor-row Harris will pickle some in port vinegar from Virginia Vinegar Works in Nelson Coun-ty. And the next day, fry some in canola oil from Portwood Acres in Rockingham County. This commitment to seasonal dining is pal-pable, making the Zynodoa kitchen a dynamic, exciting place. A dish might change three times from Wednesday to Sunday, depending on what’s available. “It is what it is,” says Harris with a smile. “You’d have to be very, very care-less to screw up these ingredients.” For more about Zynodoa, go to zynodoa.com. FRIED SQUASH BLOSSOMS WITH CHIVE MAYONNAISE From James Harris, chef at Zynodoa Serves 4 (appetizer) FOR STUFFED BLOSSOMS: 4 Tbsp. whole butter 1 lb. oyster mushrooms, stems removed 3 Tbsp. roughly chopped shallots ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. brandy 1 pint heavy whipping cream 1 lb. ricotta cheese, drained 1 dozen squash blossoms Canola oil, for frying Flour, for dusting 3 whole eggs, beaten ½ cup buttermilk Chives, as garnish Salt and pepper, to taste FOR CHIVE MAYONNAISE: 3 egg yolks 2 lemons, juiced 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. chopped chives 1½ to 2 cups canola oil 1. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, melt butter and cook 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. mushrooms on high. When browned, add shallots; cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour in ¼ cup brandy, and flambé carefully. Add cream and cook until reduced by 75 percent. Add 2 Tbsp. brandy. Purée in batches in blender until smooth (never fill blender more than halfway with hot liquid). Once cool, mix with ricotta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place mixture in a pastry bag or plastic bag with corner snipped off. Gently fill each blossom. Place in freezer for at least an hour. Meanwhile, make mayonnaise: Blend first 4 ingredients in a food processor. With machine on, slowly add oil until desired consistency (slightly thinner than store-bought mayo). Season with salt and pepper. In deep fryer or large saucepot, bring 2 inches oil to 350ºF. Dredge stuffed blossoms in flour; pat to remove excess. Mix eggs with buttermilk in a small bowl. Now dredge blossoms in egg wash, followed by flour again. Carefully place blossoms one at a time into hot oil; cook, turning, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with dollop of chive mayonnaise; garnish with chives. EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE SUMMER 2011 | 29

Fried Squash Blossoms with Chive Mayonnaise

From James Harris, chef at Zynodoa Serves 4 (appetizer) FOR S BLOSSOMS: 4 Tbsp. whole butter 1 lb. oyster mushrooms, stems removed 3 Tbsp. roughly chopped shallots 1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. brandy 1 pint heavy whipping cream 1 lb. ricotta cheese, drained 1 dozen squash blossoms Canola oil, for frying Flour, for dusting 3 whole eggs, beaten 1/2 cup buttermilk Chives, as garnish Salt and pepper, to taste FOR CHIVE MAYONNAISE: 3 egg yolks 2 lemons, juiced 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 Tbsp. chopped chives 11/2 to 2 cups canola oil 1. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, melt butter and cook mushrooms on high. When browned, add shallots; cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Pour in ¼ cup brandy, and flambé carefully. 2. Add cream and cook until reduced by 75 percent. Add 2 Tbsp. brandy. Purée in batches in blender until smooth (never fill blender more than halfway with hot liquid). 3. Once cool, mix with ricotta. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Place mixture in a pastry bag or plastic bag with corner snipped off. Gently fill each blossom. Place in freezer for at least an hour. 4. Meanwhile, make mayonnaise: Blend first 4 ingredients in a food processor. With machine on, slowly add oil until desired consistency (slightly thinner than storebought mayo). Season with salt and pepper. 5. In deep fryer or large saucepot, bring 2 inches oil to 350ºF. Dredge stuffed blossoms in flour; pat to remove excess. Mix eggs with buttermilk in a small bowl. Now dredge blossoms in egg wash, followed by flour again. 6. Carefully place blossoms one at a time into hot oil; cook, turning, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with dollop of chive mayonnaise; garnish with chives.

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